Sewing-machine



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.` 4 L. ESCHNER.

SEWING MAGHINE.

Patented Nov. 30, 1886. Iwl.

Ji?. e.

WITNES ES: 5?

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. L. ESCHNER V SEWING MACHI'NE. No. 353.487. Patented Nov. 30, 1886.

i UNITE STATES PATENT OFFICE;

LOUIS ESGHNER, OF PHILADELPHIA,` PEnnsYLvANIA.

SEWINGV-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 353,&87, date& November 0,18 &

Application filed November 21, 1885. Serial No. 183,-155.

To all whom it may concerm Be it known that I, LOUIS ESOHNER, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city and County of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania,have invented a new and useful Improvement in SewiigMaehins, which improvement is fullyset t'orth in the following specification and accompanying drawings, in which Figure l represents a side elevation of a sewing-machine embodyng ny invention. Fig. 2 represents a horizontal section in line x x, Fig. l. Fig. 3 represents an end View thereof. Figs. 4 and 5 represent perspective views of specimens of work performed by the machine. Fig. 6 is a sectional View of the device online z z, Fig. 2, the presser-foot being lowered. Fig. 7 is a sectional view enlarged,showing the relative arrangement of the cutter, needles; and gage.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.

- Myinvention consists of a sewing-machine having a cntter or l( nife attached to the needl'ebar and operated thereby, and a gage so constructed tha-t two materials after having been joined by a seam on one side may by the next operation make a second scain, forming a tube, which is severed, leaving a seam ou the fabric for the next tube, the edge of said seam serving as aguide therefor. By this improvement strips or pieces of fabric are sewed, held in position, and cut the desired and exact width byone operation, in a more accurate and better manner and in less time, with but little practice, and without liability to have the work fray out.

The invention is especially serviceable for forming the bands, aprons, and other parts of neck-scarfs and similar goods requiring tubes and closed sides.

Referring to the drawings, A'represents the d'ivingshaft of the sewing-machine, -and B represents the oscillating arnnwhich is mounted on the upper portion of the rame C, and

operated from said shaft, as well known in sewing- 'machines. The arm B is connected with the eedle bar D, to which latter are removably secured two needles, E,which, as will be seen, are arranged diagonall y to each other.

F represents the presserfoot, the same having throats G for the passage of the diagonally- (1\'0 model.)

arranged needles E, said foot being adapted to be raised and lowered in well-known manner.

To the portionof the frame C below the cloth plate is nounted a shaft, H, which extends parallel with the shaf't A, and carries at one end a pinion, H', and at the other end a pinion, H the pinion H'meshing with a pinion, A ,on the shalt A. The pinion H* meshes with a piuion, J, on a shat't, J', the latter being mounted on the frame O above the shaft H, and carrying a looper J it being seen that the inner side of the shalt A carries a looper, A the two loopers facing each other and each Operating in relation to one of the diagonally-arranged needles E, the parts being so disposcd and timed that two lines of stitehes are forned when the machine is in operation.

4 Connected with the base of the needlebar is a knife or cutter, K, and the p'esser-foot and the cloth plate are formed with threats or openings to permit the passage of said knife, it being noticed that the bla'de is located in a line between the two needles, whereby the fabric that is sewed will be cut through between the two rows of stitches.

YVhen the machine is set irmotion and the fabric is fed to the needles,two rows of stitches are formed, and the kni'e cuts the fabric between the two rows of stitches, thus dividing the same into bands or strips, sewed along their sides. (Sec Fig. 4.)

M represents a gage consist'i ng of a head,M

resting upon the clotl .-plate,and which is connected with a bar, N, the latter being movably supported at one' end above the clothplate on a block, N', attached to the end of said plate opposite to the balance-wheel of the machine, said block carrying "a screw, N, whereby the bar may be moved so as to adjust the head nearer to or further from the needles,and adapt the machine for sewing narnow and wide bands or strips.

The head M is in Vertical erosssection of triangular forn1,so that when a piece of fabricsuch as t'acing--is passed between the guide and guidebar and the cloth plate, and another piece is passed-such as lining- -over said guide,and the two pieces are fed to the needles, the piece that is below and passed around the bottom and side of the head M' has a fullness imparted to it that causes the sewed pieces to be well adapted for tubes or puffs. (See Fig. 4.) The head M is located within an adjustable guide, P, which is somewhat of the form of a channel, the upper end whereof has a fiange,Q,which overhangs the top of the head and serves to guide the fabric true through the machine, the sewed edges of the two pieces of fabric resting against` the under face of said fiange.

In operation, the gage N is adjusted by means of the screw N of the block N' and the guide P, so that the distance of the head M' from the nearest needle is the same as the (lesired line of sewing froni the other edge of the material. XVhen the desired length is sewed, the portion of the material between the head and the cutter is removed therefrom, and the other portion thereof is shifted or moved to the right, so as to occupy the said place, when the operation may be repeated, as (lesired.

XVhere it is desi red to add third piece of fabric-such as stilfening-%o the two pieces above referred to, (see Fig. 5,) Iemploy a gage, R, consisting of a loop-shaped piece of metal or other suitable material, located above the bar N, ad jacent to the needles. The gage Ris divided or formed in sectionsR' R, the section R' being secured to the pressenfoot. and the section BE being` connected with a bent arni, R the vertical limb whereof is th readed and scrwed to the adjacent end of the frame C or the goose-neck, said arm being laterally' adjnstable and held in position by ajam-nut, E the adjustment adapting the gage tostilfening or other pieces ol" various widths.

By the provision of the gages M and R, I am enabled to sew an inner stiffening to face the goods, and linings employed for the ends of bands and other parts of neck-wear and other goods, gaging the two outer materials to the desired equal or unequal proportions, producng superior work at red uced expense ot'money and time.

WVhen it is desired to sew but a single row of stitches, which may be desirable in starting the work or sewing the first side the'eof, one of the needles may be removed orunthreaded and the fabric simply guided to the other needle, which forms a row of stitches.

.Referring to Fig. 5, when the pieces of fabric are properly turned the stiffening-piece comes within the faeing and lining pieces,and the unsewed edge may then be Secured by gnmming and handsewing, if so desired, the stitches in either ease appearing on the back of the-resultant band or tube near the edges thereof, and concealed from in front.

mounted diagonally relative to the feedplate of the said machine, in conibination with a cutter located in the rear of the needles and upon a line passing between the needles in the direction of the line of feed, and means, substantially as described, for Operating said needles and cutter, allsubstantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of the needles E E, the cutter K, said needl s and cutter being arranged substantially as described, and means to operate thesaid needles and cutter, with the adjustable gage M, having head M', all substautially as and for the purpose set forth.

3. In asewing-maehine, the needles E E and cutter K, arranged substantially as described, and means to operate the same, in combination with the gage M, having head M' and ilanged guide P, all combined substantially as described.

i. In a sewing-machine, the needles E E, the cutter K, means to operate the said needles and cutter, the gage M, having adjustable bar N, and guide P, all combined substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

5. In a sewing-machine, the needles E E and the cutter K, with means to operate the same, the gage M, having bar N, and gage R, the lat ter located above said bar N, all combined substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

6. In a sewing-machine, the needles E E and the cutter K, with means to opet-ate the same,

in combination with the gage M and the gage 5 R, the latter formed of loop-shaped pieces E? and bent arm R the latter having a screwthread end, all combined substantially as and for the purpose set for-th.

7. In asewing-machine, in combination with the needles thereof and means for Operating the same, an adjustable gage adapted to operate on the table of the machine, and a second gage located above the bar oi' the first-mentioned gage and adjustably connected to the frame of the machine, all substantially as described.

LOUIS ESOHNER.

Witnesses:

JOHN A. VVIEDERsHEIM, A. P. GRANT. 

